What if I told you there’s a train that promises luxury, memorable adventures and some of the most spectacular views of Outback Australia? Enter: The Ghan.

There’s something irresistibly romantic and a bit inherently magical about long, overnight train travel – especially when the train is The Ghan. For years, this legendary journey through the heart of Australia has been a “must” on my bucket list. So, when my husband and I realised we had a week available in the year to go on an adventure together, we couldn’t resist the opportunity to board this iconic locomotive and spend four days exploring the Australian Outback together on The Ghan Expedition.

Highlights

• Cruising past ancient cliffs in Nitmiluk Gorge
• Watching a fiery orange Outback sunrise from the comfort of your train cabin bed
• Cycling through Alice Springs’ scenic trails and cultural landmarks
• Enjoying a delicious feast under the stars at Telegraph Station
• Meeting fellow travellers who not only bring comradery but inspire you to live life to the fullest

The Journey Begins: Darwin to Katherine

We enjoyed the pre-boarding entertainment and a light brunch at Darwin Terminal where we waited to board the iconic train. We had a lovely time sipping our morning Mimoso (when on holiday, right?) and devouring delicious croissants and fresh fruit while listening to the acoustic tunes of a local musician. While we were waiting to board, we also made sure to take photos of ourselves in front of the train (a must if you ask me). 

As we boarded the Premium Gold section of the train, we were promptly shown to our cabin, where our luggage was already in our room. Similar to when you’re on an airplane and the cabin crew has to go through specific procedures, including what to do in an emergency, the crew on The Ghan pretty much have to do the same thing – except this one is more confirming the off-train adventures you have chosen, giving you your cabin keys, informing you when your meal times are, and asking if you’d like a little nightcap waiting for you every night after dinner (spoiler: we said yes because life is short!). Once the admin stuff was out of the way, we went from our cabin to the Premium Gold Lounge (roughly two train carriages away), where we were greeted with a glass of sparkling wine and met our fellow travellers.

About three hours later, we arrived in Katherine and were whisked away to our first off-train adventure – a cruise through Nitmiluk Gorge in Nitmiluk National Park. During this off-train experience we boarded wo boats to explore two gorges. While the water looks inviting, be warned—the first part of Nitmiluk Gorge is home to saltwater crocodiles, so keep your limbs safely inside the boat! This first part of the tour, you’ll notice how the landscape subtly changes as you progress further into the gorge. Once we arrived at the end of the first Gorge, we disembarked from the boat and made our way along the rocky landscape to our next boat. Now, take your time walking this section because you’ll miss the incredible indigenous rock art on the cliff faces. I tried to capture their beauty of the art with a photo, but it didn’t do it any justice. Instead, I stood for a moment in awe of a culture far older than I can truly comprehend. Cruising down the second section of Nitmiluk Gorge, you’ll start to notice you’re surrounded by towering sandstone cliffs, and every so often, bursts of greenery poked out from the cracks—ferns, shrubs, even little vines that somehow have thrived in this harsh landscape. It felt like nature’s way of reminding us that no matter how hard life can be, we can always find a way to thrive – even in the most unexpected places. 

The highlight of this off-train experience was learning the fascinating indigenous history of the area and the importance of the Gorge to the culture of the local indigenous people, the Jawoyn people. In particular, we heard Dreaming stories about how Bolung (the Rainbow Serpent) sleeps in the watery depths of the Nitmiluk Gorge but must never be spoken to or woken up from their slumber. 

A little tip for your trip to Nitmiluk Gorge: it can get extremely hot, especially during Spring and Summer! We visited during October and temperature inside the Gorge was a blistering 45 degrees Celcius. Unfortunately, we saw a few people who were severely affected by the heat and had to be carried out on stretchers or wheelchairs. So make sure you’re well hydrated before arriving in Katherine and take a couple of water bottles with you for the cruise. Staying hydrated is the key to safe adventuring.

Day 2: Alice Springs

We decided to discover the third-largest town in the Northern Territory in the best way possible—on an e-bike tour! After a quick fitting (and lesson for those who may not have been astride a bike for awhile), we pedaled to a nearby nature park, stopping to hear about local history and landmarks along the way. At the park, we spotted several shy Rock Wallabies and curious native birds before biking into town. We stopped into a local art gallery where we had the opportunity to purchase some keep-sakes and local indigenous art as well as watch two local indigenous artists create their masterpieces. We also got the chance to check out some local op-shops, which I loved because I really enjoy thrifting! After our shopping spree, we hopped back on our bikes and made our way to the Reptile Park where a buffet lunch and some much needed refreshments were waiting for us. The lunch was pretty delicious, a variety of salads and cold cut meats plus several tasty desserts to refuel the ride back through town. Now, do yourself a favour and make sure you definitely take advantage of being in a spot where you can fill up your water bottles before getting back onto your bike.

After lunch, we jumped back on our bikes and pedalled our way to the burial site of John Flinders before making our way back through town to the bike shop and back to the train to freshen up before dinner. Believe me when I say that the dinner at the Telegraph Station is one you will remember – forever! With our welcome champagne in hand, we had plenty of time to explore the historical site and enjoy meeting the Camels (you can go on a Camel ride, but I opted not to) before settling into our designated seat. Then, a delicious feast of sharing plates arrived, including salads, grilled meats, and some of the best potatoes I have ever tasted (aside from my husband’s, of course). Don’t forget to leave room for the decadent desserts you’ll be treated to! My favourite were the madeleines – but I also have a soft spot for French sweets! 

A local acoustic band provided the perfect soundtrack for the evening, belting out classic Australian songs as well as well-known tunes throughout the decades that had most people up on the dusty dancefloor for a boogie. But one of the favourite parts of the evening was when one of the entertainers taught us about the nights’ sky, it’s constellations, and shared local Dreamtime stories, which gave me a deeper appreciation for the cultural and spiritual connection Indigenous Australians have with this land.

Day 3: Coober Pedy

Known as the opal capital of the world, Coober Pedy is also one of a few Aussie towns where residents live underground to escape the intense Outback desert heat! We opted to do the half-day Opal Experience, which allowed us to spend an hour or so at the Umoona Opal Mine and Museum and walk through recreated underground homes to get a taste of how people live in this desert town. After the museum, we had an hour of free-time and explored a local gallery that also doubles as a kangaroo orphanage. Unfortunately, we were too early to participate in the daily feeding of the orphaned kangaroo joeys, but we did purchase a wonderful painting created by an Indigenous artist.

After our free-time, we boarded the buses and headed to an old mine that has been transformed into a dining space known as the Quest Mine. Yep – we were eating our lunch underground in an opal mine! We were greeted by two local opal miners who shared some insights into what its’ like to mine for opals today and even gave us an opportunity to try our luck at finding some opals ourselves! (spoiler alert: I didn’t find any). We then went further into the mine to the dining hall, where we grabbed ourselves a beverage and a seat at our designated table. Unlike the dinner at Telegraph Station, this feast had fewer share plates, but you’re definitely not left hungry! After lunch, our bus drove back into town for a short stop at the Big Winch, where we were treated to paranomic views of Coober Pedy and the surrounding area. Once back on the train, the afternoon offered some downtime —the perfect opportunity for us to relax in our cabin and enjoy the Premium Gold Lounge. (Pro tip: never underestimate the joy of an afternoon nap when you’re on holiday!).

Final Stretch: Arriving in Adelaide

On our last morning we took in the final sunrise from our cabin, enjoyed a delicious breakfast in the dining carriage, and enjoyed watching the scenery change from burnt orange of the Outback to lush green farmland. We arrived at the Adelaide terminal around 10am and disembarked – bidding farewell to our epic train adventure.

Tips for fellow Ghan Expeditioners:

• Luggage: Pay attention to the luggage information for the cabin style you have booked. Larger bags may not be able to be placed in the cabin with you, meaning it will be stored elsewhere on the train and you will not be able to access it for the duration of the journey.
• Dining: You will be seated with strangers when eating in the dining carriages. Sit next to your travel buddy or spouse – it makes conversation with your new dining friends a lot easier.
• Shower Hack: The shower room/ toilet is cosy in Gold Premium and can get wet since the shower is kind of above the toilet. Pull the shower curtain all the way around and in front of the toilet to minimise the amount of water splashing everywhere.
• Nightcap: If you are in Gold Premium, definitely order the nightcap! Admittedly, we didn’t drink the nightcap every night, but sipping on one was a nice way to end an evening of delicious food and fabulous company.
• Breakfast: Don’t just order the “main” meal. Order the “starter” and share it with your travel buddy. Unless you bring snacks, there isn’t a designated morning tea, so sharing the starter and having your main breakfast meal will see your morning hunger completely satisfied until lunch.
• Telegraph Station Dinner: You don’t need to bring a cardigan or jacket to the dinner – warm ponchos are waiting for you on your dining seat.

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The Ghan Expedition exceeded our expectations. We met some of the most amazing people with fascinating life stories that have inspired me to not take life for granted, to live it the fullest and make the most out of the time that we have (one lady we met has been an off-road rally car driver in the UK for over 40 years and, even though she’s now in her 70’s, she hasn’t lost that zest for life!). The off-train experiences not only satisfied my desire for adventure but were also opportunities for me to learn more about the history of this country – which as someone who loves history this was a major plus for me!

This trip was truly one for the books and I’m so happy we finally got to tick this off the bucket list. So, if an Outback adventure on The Ghan is calling your name, don’t hestitate to answer it!

Until next time, happy exploring!

Much love, Lara X

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