Tokyo is a city that defies explanation. It is a neon-lit paradox where the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing sits just blocks away from silent, incense-scented temples. For a slow, intentional wanderer at heart, Tokyo becomes a playground of quiet magic. We spent three days soaking in the magic of Japan’s capital before heading south, and while we didn’t get to see everything, we saw exactly what we were meant to at a time when our hearts were still broken after losing our dog Freya a week before.

This blog is a reflective three-day journey through Tokyo, blending theme parks, shopping, serene temples, and encounters for travellers who value experience over checklist sightseeing. So grab a glass of something sparkling, and let’s dive into my Tokyo highlights.

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Day 1: Tokyo Disneyland – Finding Magic as Disney Adults

If you’ve followed me for a while, you know I am a self-confessed and unashamedly proud Disney Adult. So ticking Tokyo Disneyland off my bucket list was a non-negotiable. But what made this truly special was sharing it with my husband for his very first Disney experience. There is something so restorative at the soul level about embracing that childlike wonder of visiting a theme park.

We kicked things off with the Star Wars ride, which, while incredible, left us both feeling a little more woozy than we’d care to admit. Note to self: maybe save the light-speed jumps for after the stomach has settled! We spent the rest of the day in a blur of laughter, exploring every souvenir shop in search of something to take those memories home with us, and chasing down character meet-and-greets. While I didn’t cross paths with any princesses this time, I was genuinely star-struck meeting Goofy, Pinocchio, and Gepetto – who seemed to be in awe of my husband’s mustache!

The highlight of the day was a study in contrasts. We braved a 75-minute wait for the adrenaline of Big Thunder Mountain rollercoaster, which was worth every second, but followed it up with the most tranquil and slow journey around the America West on the Mark Twain Riverboat. It was romantic, chill and exactly the kind of intentional pause to end a busy day.

Oh, and if you’re unsure about rollercoasters, Big Thunder Mountain is the best entry ride for you. My husband and I aren’t fans of rollercoasters and were a little nervous when we initially lined up, but when we saw six-year olds being brave enough to go on the ride (and not losing their mind during it) we knew it wasn’t going to be as intense or scary as some of the other rollercoasters we’d seen in our lives.

Day 2: Shopping for Japanese Denim in Ueno

Our second day was dedicated to the hunt for Japanese-made denim. If you value quality over fast fashion, you know that Japanese denim is the gold standard. We headed into the Ueno shopping district as we had identified several Japanese denim brands with either flagship stores in the area or stockists nearby. We spent the best part of the morning there, going from shop to shop to try on jeans and, to our success, we both walked away with a pair of Japanese-made denim jeans that feel more like an investment than a souvenir.

There is something inherently chic about the Japanese approach to denim. It’s not necessarily about the ‘male’ or ‘female’ cut, but more about the integrity of the fabric itself. Also, embracing the unisex fit felt like a rebellion against female fashion, where body-hugging cuts of denim tend to be favoured over the more relaxed fit. It was a nice reminder that comfort and high-end construction are the ultimate luxuries.

After our shopping success, the day took an unexpected and delightful turn when we wandered from the shopping district to Ueno Park and stumbled upon a German-inspired Christmas market inside the park. There is something so wonderfully surreal about sipping mulled wine, enjoying a warm pretzel, and soaking in the festive spirit in the heart of Japan. We rounded out the afternoon with a visit to the Shimizu Kannon-do and Benten-do Temples, letting the scent of incense and the weight of the history ground us.

We then walked back from Ueno to Sunshine City to our hotel, which took about an hour but I relished the chance to be on the ground level of Tokyo and meander through the streets, walking by houses and gardens, seeing the cafes and shops, and really immersing ourselves in the everyday life of the city.

Day 3: Books, Dog Cafes, and Shibuya Crossing

We started our third day in the Higashi-Ikebukuro area of Toshima district, which was a simple 10-minute walk from our hotel, where I found my version of paradise: a bookstore called Junkudo Bookstore Ikebukuro Main Store. Spanning nine floors from the basement to the top, this legendary bookstore is one of the largest in Tokyo, a true paradise for anyone who loves to get lost in books. Although there was only a small foreign language section on Level 9, I eventually chose a single book, ‘The Full Moon Cafe” by Mai Mochizuki, to carry with me as a memento of my time here. Buying a book written by a local author from the country I’m visiting will be a quiet ritual I’ll try to keep in every new city and country from now on.

The afternoon challenged me emotionally. We visited a Samoyed dog cafe, a decision that felt heavy given that we had lost our beloved Freya only a week prior. As a fluffy, white Samoyed puppy trotted toward me, for a split second, the muscle memory of reaching out to pat Freya’s head took over and I caught myself almost saying things I would say to Freya. It was a strange thing to seek comfort from the very creature that reminds you of your deepest, rawest ache (even if the creature in question was a Samoyed and not a Bull Arab like Freya). I spent most of the time trying so hard not to cry, the grief of losing my heart dog still so raw and fresh. Even though my heart was aching for Freya, in that Tokyo cafe I felt a tiny piece of my heart begin to knit back together. While the dogs appeared incredibly well-cared for, it brought up those inevitable questions about animal welfare, and I will admit, I have complicated feelings around our participation in an industry that can and does have instances of animal exploitation. Given how deeply I value ethical wildlife experiences, if you’re going to participate in these experiences, I can’t stress enough how important it is to be intentional and only visit accredited places that truly prioritise the well-being of their animals.

We ended the night at the iconic Shibuya Crossing. My husband was out with the bucks party group on a truly must-do Tokyo experience, driving go-karts through the city streets, and I had timed it perfectly to film them crossing the iconic Shibuya Crossing. I stood there for two hours, watching the world go by, only to catch a split-second glimpse of them on the far side of the road heading in the opposite direction. I waited, certain they’d loop back, but they never did. It was a classic ‘Instagram vs Reality’ moment, but standing in the middle of that neon chaos was an experience I won’t soon forget.

Day 4: Farewell Tokyo and taking the Shinkansen to Kyoto

On our fourth morning, we boarded the Shinkansen bound for Kyoto. I gazed out the window and watched the landscape transform, but while the clouds kept Mt. Fuji shrouded in mystery, the view of the Japanese countryside offered a different kind of beauty. Unlike the vast, sprawling country towns of our Australian home, these country towns were tightly woven into the landscape and offered a glimpse into the quiet, meaningful life of the Japanese countryside. As the bullet train hummed toward our next destination, I felt ready for the temples, the tradition, and the subtle charm of Kyoto that lay ahead.

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Tokyo taught me that the best-laid plans, whether it’s a timed shot at Shibuya Crossing or a clear view of Mt. Fuji, are often just placeholders for the memories that actually matter. It’s the spontaneous Christmas market, the weight of a new book in your hand, and the shared laughter that linger long after the suitcase is unpacked. It’s given me a renewed sense of gratitude for what travel can do for the soul, even with the messy, beautiful, unscripted parts included. Here’s to finding the magic in the pivot, and always, always, making room for a little more joy and a sprinkle of childlike magic.

Much love,
Lara X

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